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Why Use a Custom Display Case For Collectibles and Models?
For more years than one can imagine, people of all ages have been collecting precious articles to display and keep for future generations to appreciate and admire. This is also true of the scale model builder who not only collects but actually builds what they wish to display.
I've been building scale models in plastic for several years now, mostly as a hobby and relaxation technique, and after several disasters and failures, have finally completed a few that I'm actually proud to display. I especially like scale model ships, and lately have been building war ships from around the world, both new and old.
After completing one of these builds, the USS Arizona, I placed it on a shelf for all to admire, and within a few weeks of the pets dancing around the house, I noticed a collection of pet hair and dust accumulated on the model. When I tried to clean this, static and moisture had accumulated on it and removing the dirt became a nightmare. With that problem, I decided to build an acrylic cover for the model to keep it clean and safe.
Being a woodworker and furniture maker, I decided on using both optical grade acrylic and oak as my materials. The result was great, and my wife wasn't opposed to displaying the case in the living room with her other furniture and collectibles.
The cases are made with an acrylic cover and using solid oak or other hardwoods with routed and decorative edging, stained and finished to a smooth furniture quality. After putting all the effort and work into my model, I felt rewarded when I had a complete scale model that I really wanted to display and protect. If one puts time and effort into creating am model, they really should invest in a display case to protect that special one of a kind model.
A quick Google search for custom display cases will yield a variety of display cases on the market. As a scale modeler, you should select the best case that enhances your work, time and effort. Several inexpensive plastic display cases are available, however, a cheap looking display cases will make your model look cheap. By investing in a quality and durable display case, your model will be further protected and artistically enhanced. You want your scale model to be showcased as a piece of art instead of something you can buy from a store at Walmart. I also found by investing in a nice display case, my wife is more likely to let me display my models around the house.
If your are mechanically minded, you can construct the display case yourself, however, I found it is beneficial to find a quality craftsman who can include a high quality acrylic and different woods to create a quality case that is pleasing to the eye. If you have a large scale model, you will likely need a custom display case to meet your model's specifications. I've worked with several craftsmen who helped me design the best display case for my model. From my experience, I found adding a custom display case to protect and preserve my time consuming work as a valuable investment. I'd hate to see my USS Arizona model ship scattered on the floor because the family cat decided to take a look!
Add a commentBeginner Tips For Building Scale Models
Tip #1: Know your scales!
There are a lot of different sized models to build, and because I mostly choose to build ship models, I have two standard sizes to choose from the various kits on the market. One is the 1:350 scale and the other is the 1:700 scale. The major difference in these is size, and for those who have unlimited room to display their work, the 1:350 scale works great, and the parts are obviously much larger to work with than the 1:700 scale. However, sometimes room is the primary consideration, and then the 1:700 scale works well. With model car, plane and train kits, their scales are entirely different, although I haven't pursued building these models yet.
Tip #2: Model your interests
I choose a kit personally based on my interests rather than any other consideration. I'm a big WWII buff, and thus, my ship building is all in that era of warship history. One of my recent model ships was the USS Arizona. If you're unfamiliar with the ship's history, she was sunk by the Japanese in Pearl Harbor on December 7 with the crew being lost and permanently entombed in her hull where they exist to this day. I choose the 1:350 scale kit because of its size and ease of workability.
Tip #3: Airbrush first and then a brush for details!
I chose acrylic paints and used an airbrush to paint most everything large enough that didn't require the use of a brush. When using a brush for some of the small parts, I found the enamel paints to give a better result. I start with the hull, without the deck or anything above the deck line and paint the underside first. I found using painters tape works well to mask the waterline and paint that again with the airbrush. Finally, after waiting at least 24 hours for it to dry, I again mask to the upper waterline and paint the sides with the grey. I set this aside and begin on the superstructure.
Tip #4: Construct in units
As a best practice, it's best to construct the superstructure in units and when assembled, glue them to the deck, which is painted prior to this step. Some like to paint all the parts to a kit before any gluing, but I found it to work better for me to paint the units as a unit. This seems to cover any glue "oops" that might have occurred during assembly.
Tip #5: Apply a coat of Future Floor Wax
It may sound funny, but the last thing I do is to airbrush a coat of Future floor wax to the hull and any place where decals will be applied. This allows the application of decals to stick better. For a beginner, I found trying to apply decals to a flat based paint is a challenge and wouldn't recommend it . The Future wax works well in the airbrush right from the bottle and leaves a gloss finish. After the decals are applied, I then spray a clear, dull coat acrylic over the ship to give it a realistic finish.
Tip #6: Rig with wire
Once you've completed the general construction and painting, the next step is to create the rigging. The rigging is the wire and rope lines that extend across the masts of the ship. There are a lot of ways to achieve this, some people use stretch sprue, some use thread, and others use very fine wire. For a beginner I recommend trying some really thin wire to start. In future articles, I'll describe more advanced ways to get the perfect rigging, however, this article is devoted to the very early beginner.
Tip #7: Resources for more advanced techniques
In this article, I'm only just touching on the key tips for successfully developing your interest in model building. I haven't explored anything other than "building right out of the box". For the advanced modeler, there are amazing and seemingly unbelievable methods and detailing that can be applied like photo etch (PE) details, using custom made barrels for the 16" guns, etc. I would recommend getting online to some of the forums like steelnavy.com or modelwarships.com and click on the forums pages where you will find numerous posts with wonderful and exciting information on ship building!
Tip #8: Must Have Tools
I would recommend the minimum tools for the beginning scale model building:
- Exacto knife with #2 blades to start
- An assortment of paint brushes for the small hand work. Beginners should obtain some larger brushes since I don't recommend an airbrush purchase until you're confident you enjoy the hobby.
- Painters tape (the blue stuff)
- Plastic glue (the one with the needle spout)
- Toothpicks
- Sprue cutters
- Only purchase the paints identified on your first model (don't overspend on paint again until you're happy with the hobby)
- Emory board (for smoothing any rough surfaces on the parts)
- A well lit work table space
- Q- tips (used when applying decals, to safely move them around for proper placement)
Finally, the list of necessary items and what I've talked about here is for the first time model builder to consider.
These are just the bare minimum tools for successful scale model building. I know, if you get hooked as I did, you'll end up with an entire work area devoted just to the "tools" you just have to have. Before you start investing in more advanced tools, start simple and slow. You'll quickly find scale modeling can be quite the investment in the hobby.
Remember to select a model, whether it's planes, trains, boats, automobiles, and make it something you have a real interest in. It just makes the whole experience a pleasant one. Make sure you save the first model you build to measure your improvement with time and practice. I still have my first model and thankfully, I've improved!
Have fun and keep modeling alive.
Add a commentModel Ship Display Case Quality Considerations
When we collect, build or find that one of a kind item (for me that means building the really great scale model), it seems only appropriate that the quality and pride of ownership be preserved in how we show it off to others. I've built some pretty good scale model ships after lots and lots of attempts and failures. I now want to display and show off my work to others...mostly to get some ooh's and aah's. It's a real morale booster, believe me!
With that said, when you decide to display your cherished piece, you should put the same pride into the environment you place it in. I build model ships, and I've tried using those all plastic, molded inexpensive cases you can find at some hobby stores to show off my work, and when displayed, these just seem to take all the hard work and pride from my work. It might be a personal thing, but I want the same quality in the case as I put into the model build.
That's where I decided to make my own custom display cases using only the best materials to show off my work. I build these cases now using only optical grade acrylic sheets, which offer greater protection factor from UV exposure and fights yellowing over time. It is also cleanable and is resistant to scratching. If it is scratched, a quick polish will clean and brighten it with a little acrylic polish like Novus Plastic Clean & Shine Number 1.
The base I choose to use is always a hardwood, always solid with no plywood or veneers, and my choice of wood is usually red oak. The grain patterns and depth of grain gives the base a beautiful furniture quality. I stain these to the color that best matches the surround display area and finish it with a polyurethane topcoat for protection and quality. The base is routed with a decorative edge to give it that quality look that begs to be displayed proudly.
Quality over cost is sometimes difficult to deal with, but when one considers all the hours and revisions when building a scale model, it is well worth the investment to incorporate the same quality in the case it will be displayed in. It just makes sense to show your work in the best environment possible. I hope you can use these tips to construct your own display case or use it as criteria when evaluating other display case providers.
Add a commentGrandpa's Cabinets was proud to be part of history! The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration commissioned us to build a time capsule case. The time capsule will be opened 20 years from now.

Order a display case to ensure your models are protected for history!
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